A garden gate is the handshake of your boundary. It is the first thing visitors touch, the last thing you close at night, and the piece of timber that takes more weather than almost anything else outdoors. Choosing well means thinking about timber, height, construction and finish before you spend a penny — because a gate that suits a sheltered Devon cottage may sag within two winters on a windy East Anglian corner.

Start with the Timber

Most gates sold in the UK are softwood — usually Scots pine, spruce or larch. It is affordable, easy to work and, when properly pressure-treated, perfectly capable of giving you ten to fifteen years of service. Look for timber described as pressure-treated rather than merely dipped or sprayed, as the treatment needs to penetrate the full section of the wood, not just the surface. Treated softwood is the sensible default for most homes.

If your budget stretches further, consider the naturally durable options:

• Western red cedar — light, stable, naturally rot-resistant and beautifully warm in colour. It silvers gracefully if left untreated.
• Oak — heavy, handsome and long-lasting, but expensive and demanding. It needs stout posts, heavy-duty hinges and a frame that can carry the weight.
• Iroko and similar hardwoods — dense, oily and extremely durable, often chosen for coastal gardens where salt and wind punish lesser timbers.

The trade-off is always the same: softer, cheaper timber needs more looking after. Hardwood costs more up front and less over the years.

Match the Height to the Job

Think about what the gate actually has to do. A low gate of around 900mm to 1m works well at the side of a house or as a decorative front boundary, letting light through and keeping the street feeling open. If you want privacy, screening or pet containment, you will be looking at something closer to 1.8m.

Height brings rules with it. In England and Wales, a gate or fence bordering a highway must generally stay under 1m, and under 2m elsewhere, unless you have planning permission. Check with your local authority before ordering — a beautiful gate that has to come down is an expensive mistake. Also think about door furniture: a taller gate needs a latch you can reach comfortably, and if bins or bikes pass through regularly, check the clear opening width, not just the overall size.

Look at How It Is Built

Two gates of identical size can differ enormously in quality. The classic ledged and braced design — vertical boards fixed to horizontal ledges with a diagonal brace — is sturdy and traditional, and the brace should always run from the bottom hinge side upwards to the top of the opening side, so it carries the weight rather than fighting it.

Board type matters too. Tongue and groove boards interlock for better privacy and less rattling in the wind. Feather edge boards overlap and shed water well but tend to shrink and open up over time. A mortise-and-tenon or fully framed gate will outlast a nailed-together one, particularly in exposed spots. Look at the fixings: stainless steel or galvanised nails and screws will not leave rust streaks down your timber.

Security, Privacy and Access

A wooden gate is a deterrent, not a fortress, but small choices make a real difference. A gate that meets its posts closely, with no easy gap at the top or bottom, is much harder to climb or reach through. Fit a good-quality ring latch or thumb latch on the inside, and consider a lockable bolt or padlock hasp if the gate guards a side passage.

Hinges are where cheap gates fail first. Choose galvanised or stainless steel hardware rated for the weight of the gate, and use three hinges rather than two on anything above about 1.2m wide. If security matters, hang the gate so the hinges cannot simply be unscrewed from the outside.

Finish It and Keep It Going

Whatever timber you choose, a finish will slow the weather down. For a natural look, a clear or tinted wood oil or stain feeds the timber and lets it breathe; for a painted gate, use a flexible exterior wood paint and expect to recoat every few years. Avoid anything that seals the surface completely, as trapped moisture is what causes rot.

Then set a simple routine:

• Check the gate after gales and tighten any loose bolts or screws.
• Re-treat exposed end grain, particularly the top and bottom edges of boards.
• Clear soil, leaves and grass away from the base so the bottom rail can dry out.
• Re-oil hinges and latches once a year — a drop of oil prevents most squeaks.

Measure Twice, Fix It Firmly

Measure the opening in several places, as few gaps are perfectly square, and measure the diagonal from corner to corner to check for twist. Allow roughly 10mm to 25mm of clearance so the gate swings freely, and leave a little air beneath the bottom rail to stop it sitting in damp ground. Posts should be set at least 600mm into the ground and concreted in, ideally on a bed of hardcore for drainage.

Get the timber, height, construction and finish right, and a well-chosen wooden gate will quietly do its job for years — swinging sweetly, weathering gracefully and making the whole boundary look considered.